Monthly Archives: April 2018

  • Who Made Your Clothes? : Fashion Revolution Week

    This week is Fashion Revolution Week (23-29th April 2018) and consumers are being encouraged to ask "Who Made My Clothes?" to demand greater transparency in the fashion supply chain. Five years to the day of the devastating and horrific Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh, the real cost of keeping the population 'fashionably' dressed is being called into question.

    Photo by Rijans on Flikr

     

    The huge scale of the problem may be one of the reasons that consumers have been reluctant to stop and think about the high cost of cheap clothes - there are the terrible working conditions and low pay for sweatshop workers (the majority of whom are women), but the scale of the waste and the throwaway nature of fashion has created an industry which creates greenhouse emissions of 1.2bn tonnes a year – larger than that of international flights and shipping combined! Added to this is the huge problem of what to do with the sheer amount of clothes that are being thrown away (a truckload is wasted every second across the world, according to a report by the EllenMacArthur Foundation).

    Who made your clothes? We can check the labels of our clothes right now to see where a garment was made and what the fabric composition is, but this barely scratches the surface of the number of hands that work on a single piece of clothing. According to Fashion Revolution sources, “approximately 75 million people work to make our clothes. 80% of them are women between the ages of 18 and 35.” This includes the farmers, spinners/synthetic manufacturers, weavers, dyers and of course, the sewers. As part of Fashion Revolution week, brands and producers are encouraged to share the stories of their workers who contribute to the production of a garment by saying #imadeyourclothes. By doing this there is an increase in the maker-user engagement, and also understanding of the human lives behind fashion - a side that just isn't apparent in the shops.

    As people who make our own clothes, we understand the precious time it takes to create something and yet the ever-increasing speed of fashion business is causing the need for quicker manufacture of both fabric and garments - how is it possible to make a t-shirt in 15 minutes? Most of us will likely sew for fun or for relaxation, and those of us producing clothing and accessories for small-scale businesses will communicate the slower course of production as an advantage, as a unique selling point. Yet in the big fashion world, slow isn’t good and so the demand increases for ever faster production, more workers, long hours and stressful environments, along with lack of (or not good enough) safety procedures causing disasters like the Rana Plaza factory collapse. That is why Fashion Revolution calls upon brands to open up their supply chain and be transparent about where everything comes from and show the consumer #whomadeyourclothes.

    As makers, we are often the ones making the clothes. Perhaps some of you only wear homemade clothing and of course, we’re right to be proud of what we produce. However, the consideration during Fashion Revolution week, or any other week, in fact, isn’t necessarily about sharing who made the garment, but rather thinking about who made the components for the garment. While this campaign calls in to question every step on the supply chain, it does revolve heavily around those in the CMT (cut-make-trim) areas of clothing production. As a fabric retailer, we at Ray Stitch call in to question where our fabric comes from - who farmed or produced the yarn, who spun it, who wove it, who dyed and finished it. Trims, fastenings and thread should also be considered for their origin; the hands hard at work to produce these items forgotten about on the care labels of our shop-bought garments.

    This is Genesh, he is part of the community weaving our GOTS-certified woven organic fabrics, seen here weaving the Dunweave in Kerala, India.

     

    At Ray Stitch, we’re working towards providing as much information as possible about the origin of our fabric selection, from the fibre right through to the dyeing or printing processes used. We’ll probably never see the faces of those that work on the production side, but working with our suppliers, we want to be able to show you as much as we can so that your buying and making decisions are well informed. We have made a start and now have production information for all of our plain organic fabrics, which you can find within each individual product page on our website. As the organic fabrics come from small-scale producers it can be easier to trace than with larger manufacturers, but we’ll do our best!

    As daunting as all of this seems the main thing that we can all do is become more conscientious consumers. Recognising that we have great power in how we choose to consume and thinking about the impact that our purchase will have is a great place to start. Say no to fast fashion, consider how you dispose of any clothes you no longer wish to keep but ideally think about long-term investments when you buy, or repurposing and mending. There is a good article in The Guardian today listing 7 Ways to Get Involved with Fashion Revolution Week, and if you would like to do some further reading around the topic then this selection of 18 books from the Fashion Revolution blog is a great place to start.

    You can keep up with the Fashion Revolution campaign on Instagram and Twitter plus there’s a very interesting Fanzine that you can purchase (or read online to save paper!) with the current issue discussing ‘Loved Clothes Last’, which includes a section on mending and darning (which you know we love!)

  • Ray Stitch: Upholstery at Number 99

    Exciting news!

    As the Make it Yourself movement continues to grow we found that many of you were turning your creative hands to more than just garment making. We have seen a rise in the numbers of people attempting upholstery diy and making soft furnishings for their homes, and many more who are tackling coats and bags and looking for heavier weight fabrics - so we've opened a new space catering specifically for those type of projects.

    Number 99 is across from our main shop at 66 Essex Road, and if you've been a regular customer you will be familiar with it already - it used to house our main store until the big move last year! The new/old shop has had a makeover and now is a light and airy space in which to peruse our selection of fabrics ideal for upholstery, soft furnishings, interior homewares, curtains, bag and coat making. We also offer a full upholstery and curtain making service if using our fabric and we can talk you through measuring and calculating fabric quantities. If you want to tackle it yourself we have all the sundries and some helpful advice.

    We have great range of end of roll upholstery fabrics (at very good prices!) and we're very proud to be the exclusive stockists of London Cloth Company fabrics: - produced on their range of carefully and lovingly restored vintage shuttle looms.

    Number 99 is already open for business (Monday to Sunday 11am - 5pm) but we'll be celebrating the opening of the new shop with the launch of something a little bit special: On Friday 4th May we will be holding the first of our after-hours events, 'An Evening with...' Amanda Girling-Budd from The School of Stuff.

    (Read more about this here... a fortnightly programme of talks by designers, creators, innovators, movers and makers)

    Amanda Girling-Budd has been a professional upholsterer for many years, has taught Conservation and Upholstery at the London Metropolitan University as well as having a PhD in the History of Design. She set up the School of Stuff in .... as a studio to teach furniture crafts in Dalston. After 10 years based at Hackney City Farm, specialising in upholstery, the School of Stuff moved and expanded into their current studio in Shacklewell Lane and added classes such as cabinet making, furniture restoration and marquetry. The length of courses range from a two year long one day a week syllabus, to one-off days or weekends with intensive weeks and 12-week classes in-between. Check the timetable on their website here.

    An Evening with The School of Stuff is on Friday the 4th of May, starting at 6.30pm with drinks, nibbles and a chance to look around Number 99. Amanda will be starting her talk at 7pm and there will be a chance for questions and further discussions from the audience before finishing around 8.30pm. We hope these events will be a great way to kickstart your weekend with an inspiring and informal evening and look forward to meeting you after-hours! Tickets are £10 and can be booked here.

    As always, we would love to hear your views and comments, and if you have an idea for a great speaker or panel then please do get in contact and we will do our best!

    *You can join us for An Evening with Daniel Harris from the London Cloth Company on Friday 27 July.